The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne reveals aromas of white peach, spring flowers, crisp green apple and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and tensile, with lively acids and a long, mineral finish, a part of this cuvée is in a tronconic oak tank. The 2020 vintage is another very promising year for Pierre-Yves Colin, who finds the wines a bit more charming and demonstrative than the more serious, structured 2019s—the latter a vintage we revisited in bottle and which appears to possess considerable aging potential. As readers may know, Colin’s bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren’t crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follows.