Montrose 1982

Montrose is well-known to modern collectors for their strong performance in 1989 and 1990, but I found two recent bottles of the 1982 vintage absolutely superb and among the best wines from this château I’ve ever had. The aromas are mature but not overly so, and the wine retains a pleasantly plummy fruit character, now accented with cedar, smoke, and leather notes. This wine seems to me to have ­at least another ten to fifteen years if cellared well.

Expressive and open, lively, forward, bright and shiny with clarity to the red berry and cherry fruit both sour and fresh alongside sweet tobacco, cedar and truffle. Lots of life still on the palate, beautifully textured with grip and hold. The chalky, crushed-stone, salty tang and graphite edges make their mark, almost raw, the tannins slightly grainy, but this captivates from the first sip and holds interest through to the long finish. Full and friendly with such a wonderful sense of place, given the lasting iron tang.

Drink: now- 2045