Clos de Vougeot 2020 Meo-Camuzet in Giftbox

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very promising, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, orange rind, potpourri and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s seamless and complete, with superb depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. It will be fascinating to compare with the 2019 rendition in two decades’ time. Jean-Nicolas Méo began his harvest on August 23, and he has produced another fine vintage at this Vosne-Romanée reference point. Méo has always done well in warm, sunny vintages (as a lovely bottle of his 2003 Nuits Lavières recently reminded me), and 2020 is no exception. Indeed, for a vintage that was generally somewhat primary and frequently tightly wound this winter, Méo’s wines—habitually quite backward after 12 months’ élevage—were remarkably put together and expressive. Mostly landing at around 13.5% alcohol, they’re vibrant, concentrated and nicely balanced, showing considerable aging potential.